We’re in Malham today, arriving a little later than we should. All the roadside parking has gone, and it’s only by great good fortune we manage to squeeze into the last space on the National Park car-park. It’s noon, and Malham is full. There is a festival air with a huge marquee, either in the process of being put up or taken down. There are coaches, several school parties, the older kids with clipboards, the younger ones with teddy bears. There are cars with European plates, God bless them, plucky pilgrims from the Continent who still think we’re worth the journey. They come for the Cove, and for Goredale Scar, some of the most dramatic scenery in the UK. This can make the routes a little tedious and over-crowded, rather than places of dreamy contemplation. But there are still haunts around Malham where nobody goes, and where you can escape for an afternoon, if solitude is your thing.
From the village, we pick up the route of the Pennine Way, and follow it south, to the tiny hamlet of Hanlith. I’ve never walked this way before, and find the scenery refreshing, with its views across Malham Beck, the gentle pastures rising beyond. The path has no need for flagstone pavings, it being less trampled, indeed quite sketchy in places, considering it is a national trail. The forecast was for a poor day – so much of June has been poor – but things are brightening, and the air is filled with the sound of curlews. The fallow land is yellow with buttercups, brushed through with the white of cow parsley, all of which adds a touch of impressionist art to the landscape.
It has been a good year for the curlews, something I hope I can read as an omen for better days ahead for poor old Albion – I mean, as we blunder, bruised and battered, into another General Election. But judging by the cartoonishness, and the lack of serious engagement of the political and media classes, the return of the curlew look like being our only solace. There is perhaps a lesson to be had in that. We see ourselves reflected best in the natural world, and in the sweep of the land, in the lone trees dotted against the sky, and in the call of the curlew. In current affairs, there is only emptiness and folly.
The meadow path meets the steep, zig-zagging Windy Pike Lane, at the hamlet of Hanlith. We follow it up by Windy Pike Farm, where we encounter the poetry of eighteen-year-old Betty Chester, of whom I can find little information. Malhamdale.com describes her as a poor, uneducated farmworker. The poem is dated 1881. I include it here in full, for we lesser known scribes must stick together, not only across continents, but time as well:
A Poem about Malhamdale
O how I love thee, dear old Malhamdale!
With thy sequestered nooks and lovely vale,
Adorned by curious rocks and shady dells,
Fine waterfalls and rugged, high-peaked fells,
That lavishly display in many a part
The richest beauty of nature’s art
In thee, old Malhamdale.
Thou dost at every season of the year,
In sunshine bright, and wintry storms severe,
Present to my admiring eyes a face
That’s unsurpassed in beauty and in grace.
For, though I wander other sights to see,
Yet find I none that can compare with thee,
Romantic Malhamdale.
For, in the joyous and reviving spring,
What dale is there that can surpass thee in
The charms which budding tree and freshening field
And springing flower in rich abundance yield?
As nature fair arouses out of sleep,
And with consummate skill makes thee complete
In beauty, Malhamdale.
And when the soft and genial summer’s air
Brings into bloom thy flowers of beauty rare,
They with thy new-borne stream and rocks unite
In making thee a wonder and delight,
While birds, which sport so joyously at play
Raise happy songs that drive dull care away
From thee, bright Malhamdale.
Or when the cold and searching autumn’s breeze
Blights the fair flowers, and strips the dark green trees
Of all their leaves, which once were bright and gay
But now are left to wither and decay.
Although thou art of such great charm bereft,
I love thee still for there is beauty left
In thee, fair Malhamdale.
I love to see thee clad in garments fair
Which winter brings and spreads o’er thee with care.
As though to shield thy beauties from the cold,
She doth thee in pure white snow enfold,
And render thee more picturesque and grand,
While wonderingly at Windy Pike I stand
To view thee, sweet Malhamdale.
I live to view thee in the daylight clear,
And when the calm grey twilight hours appear,
Or when the moon sheds forth her mellow light
To cheer and grace the shadows of the night.
No matter when or where I gaze on thee,
Nought can I find but rich sublimity
In thee, my native dale.
Betty Chester, 1881
Beyond the farm, the lane peters out into a long track, which climbs gently, and then to a path, where it enters the open access area of Hanlith Moor. From here, white painted posts mark a breadcrumb trail, faint, occasionally boggy, to an intersection with the better path coming up from Calton. The views of Malhamdale all along this route are striking, and Betty’s poem rings clear. Much will have changed since her day – the volume of tourists for one, but, far less so than in other places. Indeed, from this altitude, there is the impression of having shaken off the centuries altogether.
The way to Weets Tops is straight forward now, but our attention is distracted by the intriguing dome of Hetton Common Head, where the Dales High Way comes up from the direction of Hetton and Rylestone. The map promises a route across to it, and sure enough there’s one on the ground, but very faint, and it involves a soggy crossing of Halton Moor Syke. I would not advise this after a wet spell. As it is, we manage to keep our feet dry by wandering upstream a bit. A little more wandering, and we intersect the Dales High Way, then bag the top – a small cairn marks the spot. This proves to be a very worthwhile diversion. The views from here, in all directions, are superb. As I have grown older, I seem to be growing out of the high drama of the Lake District, and have come to appreciate more the sublime quality of the Dales, which are less demanding of one’s energy.
Just a short walk now to our final objective of Weets Top, where we discover a trig point rendered almost insignificant by an accompanying drystone wall that climbs over rocky outcrops. In the corner of the way, by the fell gate, there is also the remains of the ancient Weets Cross, one of many waymarkers left over from the monastic period, and with links to Fountains Abbey. The wayside fairies interfere with my camera at this point, set it to manual, in order to make sure I don’t get a photograph of it.
We’re about four miles round, so far, and have not seen another soul, since leaving the bustle of Malham. This won’t last much longer, and I predict a scrum around the chuck-wagon at Goredale Bridge, which is now just a short walk down the single-track Hawthorns Lane. Sure enough, ten minutes, and we’re back in the thick of it, but we do manage a most welcome cup of tea. All the benches are taken, so we perch ourselves precariously atop a boulder. Cross-legged, and dressed entirely in green, we must resemble an overlarge leprechaun.
Here we watch the world go by in all its noise and colour. A preschool child, asks politely at the chuck-wagon for a Kit-Kat, reaching up with his coins, and a sweetness I hope he never grows out of. An elderly couple sit chatting. He has a cup of tea, she is enjoying an ice-cream. They have the animated expressions of a courting couple, something even a little coquettish in the way her steel-grey hair floats in the breeze. He looks craggy and heroic. They are both tanned, flushed with energy, and clearly happy in one another’s company. By contrast, a brutish troll comes strolling up with a pair of salivating hounds, straining at the leash. He has a fag end in the corner of his mouth, as if to underline the caricature he has made of himself. A stout, scowling woman walks a step behind him. I make up stories for them all.
In the pool by Janet’s Foss, there are girls, bathing, and the air is full of the squeal and splash of children. Fresh notices have been erected asking us politely not to stay there overnight. The wood is as lovely as ever, and is as busy as ever. The trees are adorned with bird boxes, and bee hotels. In the meadows on the other side, there is a huddle of walkers, looking uncertain of themselves, the path having been colonised by a herd of bullocks. A notice advises us to keep our distance. I don’t know if it’s over-confidence, or stupidity, but the beasts seem placid, so I wander through them with gentle words, and they amble aside. Ramblers are occasionally killed by cattle, but not many. Still, I wonder why they are allowed to graze over public rights of way, when they effectively bar access to it for so many who are understandably afraid to be among them.
Mid-afternoon, Malham is still busy, and I am ready for coffee. The marquee is still in the process of either being put up or taken down, children are still milling with their clipboards and teddy-bears. Vehicles are circling the carpark, in the forlorn hope of bagging a miracle slot. The little blue car is hidden between a pair of giant SUV’s, causing confusion, drivers thinking the slot is empty, and they pull up, surprised to find it occupied, albeit by what looks, relatively speaking, like a toy car. We take pity on them, change from our boots and free up the space.
Malham would be too busy for a contemplative coffee anyway, so we drive just a short distance, to the farm shop at Airton instead. We pick up a nice cheese to take home while we’re at it, or more likely a cheese to take with us on holiday. We’ll be bringing it back to the Dales in a few days, this time taking up residence for a while. Our annual cottage in upper Wharfedale is calling. The longer I spend here, the less I want to go home.
Just over six miles round, seven hundred and thirty feet of ascent.
![](https://michaelgraeme.wordpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/weets-top-120624-1.jpg?w=1024)
GPX file here. Let me know if it works.