If it’s the last Friday of February, the Mazda and I can probably be spotted at Glasson Marina. It’s a lack of imagination perhaps, this annual if-then-goto routine, one I’d not intended programming into my life, but Glasson has a charm that’s hard to resist, and no better place to look for signs of the season of renewal.
This is the third year I’ve made the trip, and by some miracle of meteorology the weather has been the same on each occasion – a pale sunshine, a light wind to bite the ears, and a startling clarity to the air. This coincidence lends a peculiar weight to the imagining of Glasson, which is just begging for disappointment on the next occasion with the visitation of heavy rains. But for now I’m enjoying the illusion of a permanently sunny place, an illusion of timelessness, that the last Friday of February is a portal to a groundhog recurrence of the same moment in time, lived over and over.
The daffodils have been out for weeks now, snowdrops and early crocuses making an effort. There were rabbits and lambs afield, and a rumbling tingling business about the port with a grain ship alongside and her cargo being hoisted ashore. I feel movement after the frigidity of winter, a sense we’re on our way at last.
There are plenty of options for the walker here and none of them giving the impression of being well trodden. The ways are clearly marked though and there’s none of the mischief around stiles and waymarks that the landed fraternity are otherwise known to play on the landless. It can be heavy going though. I know it must rain sometimes because the meadows, and the paths that thread between them were a quagmire, a glutinous mud clogging up the boots, adding inches of lumbering clumsiness to their height.
I usually head south from Glasson to Cockerham, there to pick up the coastal way, then loop back to Crook Farm and Glasson. Today though I took a more direct way, west, out to the sea, popping up near Lighthouse Cottage. The tide was in and lapping softly over the rocky shore. It’s a silty sea here, a far cry from the crystal clarity of the Hebrides, but it has a mirror charm and reflects the sky dreamily.
Now and then along the shore, among the paler tide-worn rocks, you’ll find a rounded piece of anomalous sandstone, remains of the abbey, the ruins of which they used to build the flood-banks, to win back much of land hereabouts from the sea. I found a small piece of it, almost spherical, the size of a tennis ball. It found its way into my pocket. I’ll borrow it as a talisman for a while, return it to the sea when this portal in time opens up again, next year.
All that remains of the abbey is the remarkably well preserved Chapter House, another apparent anomaly washed up along this lonely stretch of coastline.
Coincidences are clustering just now. I never know what this means. I finished a book recently in which I read a line about strangers being only friends one has not met yet. Then I heard it in a discussion on the radio. An unremarkable coincidence perhaps, except, stopping by Glasson’s Christ Church, during my perambulations today, I saw a notice pinned up that bore the same quotation.
I know we have to take care in how we read such things, wary always of jumping at the literal meaning, of jumping to conclusions, because then the openings in time, the portals of true meaning will close off and leave us confused or disappointed.
It’s more that there’s an interconnectedness to things, or an underlying vibration that sometimes reaches resonance and pokes a moment of strangeness clean through the fabric of space time, a thing to raise eyebrows in our more rational view of reality. If we’re open to life, open to the possibility, to the mystery of it, we invite such intimacies.
There’s a lighthouse a little way out to sea here – the Cockerham Light. There used to be two, the other on shore, raised on a platform above Lighthouse Cottage. From out at sea, vessels knew they were on the right approach to Glasson when the two lights were coincident, one above the other. I think that’s what coincidences are, a clustering of lights in the darkness, a sign you’re on course for something – for what exactly we’ll never know, but I find their occasional presence comforting all the same.
It was good to get out for the day.
We both enjoyed the run.